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Culture

Culture, Nutrition

Food taboos, do you they work for us or against us?

Taboos are a part of every culture and among these are food taboos. Anything that is taboo is strictly forbidden, for cultural or spiritual reasons. Those known to have transgressed taboo are punished, and may be cast out of their society. In the days of old, these taboos served a purpose of enforcing discipline and control in society although many of these were many a time affecting only a section of society who were the children and women. These days however, a taboo is usually seen as a magic concept with no real basis although there often is reason for it, at least within systems of belief, some of which are now termed ‘religions’, others ‘philosophies’, and others ‘superstitions’. Food taboos are deeply entrenched and their rationale may be religious, cultural, hygienic, historic or economic.

Reggie Annan, a lecturer/Public Health Nutritionist at Kwame Nkurumah University of Science and Technology says ” In Africa, as in many other parts of the world, what people say and do is strongly influenced by age-old supernatural beliefs, which Christian missionaries downgraded as ‘superstition’. In Africa, as in Asia, older and country people still may live as much in the realms of the supernatural and the afterlife, as in the physically living realm”

In Africa, many cultures forbade children and women from eating most of the protein rich foods from animal sources like chicken, eggs, pork, goats milk to mention but a few. But like we said many of these had a super natural belief attached however behind closed curtains, a justifiable reason was given. For example in Ghana, children were not allowed to eat eggs for it was believed that if the child was fed on eggs, they would end up thieves. This practice has faded in current times although some areas still hold onto this practice and children themselves will refuse eggs when they are offered to protect themselves from becoming thieves. Trying to understand why this supernatural belief existed, this is the explanation that I was given which turns out to be for economic reasons, “it was feared that when children were fed very well or were brought up luxuriously, they would resort to stealing to maintain opulent ways of living when their parents can longer afford or when they grew up. And so to avoid this situation, children were not allowed foods considered to be luxuries.” Whilst this made alot of sense and I believe it was done in the best interest of the children, it served more harm than good. You see, children need eggs more than anyone as they are growing because eggs are a very good source of proteins that is most required yet here they are worrying about not becoming thieves. It is even more unfortunate that some superstitions found their way to breastfeeding in some cultures and some of these will shock you. In some cultures, it was believed that milk given to babies in the night would be sour their stomach so teas were given instead. Lactating mothers who had sexual intercourse with a man who was not the father of the child, were at risk of giving the baby ‘bad’ milk or the baby picking germs. The most surprising of them all I came across was that unless a drop of breastmilk is squeezed into the rectum of the baby, milk from the breast of a woman who has been working in the sun and sweating would make the baby sick. All these worked against the baby who would end up losing out all the benefits of breastmilk and end up malnourished.

Food taboos have an impact on dietary intake and nutritional status of the affected persons. In Uganda like other parts of Africa, tribal food taboos, especially as applied to women and female children, have been one of the main causes of malnutrition. Kwashiorkor which is a form of severe acute malnutrition has been one of the common occurrences here in Africa and food taboos together with poverty have played a big role in this. In addition to the examples I have pointed above, I will give you another case in point to drive the point home. For so long here in Uganda among many cultures, it was a taboo for a pregnant woman to continue breastfeeding even when the older child was less than six months. It was believed that continuing to breastfeed would harm the growing child therefore such mothers stopped breastfeeding as soon as they found out that they were pregnant. On top of stopping to breastfeed, these children were often neglected because mothers turned all their attention on the pregnancy and preparation for the coming child. Hence the older child became malnourished. The indigenous people in those days did not realise that these children were suffering from malnutrition because they had been prematurely weaned, were being inadequately fed, and receiving poor care.

This leaves me with the question that where do we draw the line between respecting culture by upholding the taboos and violating them to preseve life.

What food taboos exist in your culture? What superstitions accompany them and have you found out the reason behind the closed curtains. Also have you ever wondered why there is almost no food taboo that affects the men?

Culture, Nutrition

Uganda’s native foods

You have probably heard people talk about a staple food and maybe or maybe not you have wondered what in the world a staple food is. A staple food is a food that is eaten routinely and in such quantities that it constitutes a dominant portion of a standard diet for a given person, supplying a large fraction of energy needs and generally forming a significant proportion of the intake of other nutrients as well. It is eaten regularly or even daily. We have about 41 tribes here in Uganda and each of these have a staple food that has been handed over generations down since time memorial although many tribes share in the regions where they are. These staple foods are mostly shaped by the geographical conditions of the area where these people hail.

Uganda is generally an equatorial country although the climate is not uniform as temperatures and rainfall vary with altitude across regions. The southern part of Uganda is more rainy, and the rainfall is generally spread throughout the year. On the northern shore of Lake Victoria, the rain falls from March to June and from November to December. In the southwest, on the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo, it rains heavily all year round. The northeastern region has the driest climate and is prone to droughts in some years. Annual rainfall ranges between 500 mm in the northeast and 1300 mm in the southwest. However today let us look at the different staples and native foods that shape our cultures in Uganda

Overall, plantains (also commonly known as matooke here in Uganda) and cassava are the most common staple foods in Uganda. Plantains or simply matooke are starchy bananas that are cooked and consumed as a staple which you will find as a part of most household diets here. Plantains are common in the central, western, and southern regions whereas cassava is very in eastern, northern, and northwestern Uganda. The other staple foods we have in Uganda include sweet potatoes, Maize, wheat, rice, millet, groundnuts, sorghum, to mention but a few. Food staples vary from place to place like earlier said, depending on the food sources available. Most food staples are inexpensive, plant-based foods and usually full of calories for energy. From the examples given above you can see that cereal grains and tubers are the most common food staples. Although staple foods are nutritious, they do not provide the full, healthy range of nutrients. People must add other foods to their diets to avoid malnutrition.

You maybe wondering the ‘other foods’ I am referring to that ought to be added to get the rest of the nutrients. These ‘other foods’ are called complementary foods and just as their name suggests, these complement the staples. They may not be routinely eaten and not in large quantities as the staples but the serve an essential role in meeting nutritional requirements. They are also more expensive compared to the staples. They include protein sources like meat, poultry, fish, legumes and milk products; energy sources like fats, oils and sugars; and vitamin and mineral sources – fruits, vegetables and animal products. Just like the staples they are varied in regions depending on their way of living, for example fish will be found common in the Albertine region and Lake Victoria basin while milk products will be found among regions that herd cattle.

That being said, I will leave you with Uganda’s must trys when it comes to native foods. These comprise of most of Uganda’s staple foods in all regions that we have.

Matooke

Being the most common staple food is Uganda I will start here. It is a type of plantain belonging to the East African Highland Banana group that can be peeled and be boiled in water, steamed in banana leaves then squeezed to make a golden yellow mash or else boiled together with ground nuts, beans or meat, offal to make the delicious meal commonly known as akatogo. Another type of plantain that is enjoyed by many is Gonja which can either be steamed or fried. Matooke can also be cooked without being peeled to make a dish known as mpogola or roasted in hot ash which is a very tasty meal accompanied with a complementary dish of choice. Probably what makes it even more common is the various options of preparation that it has.

Luwombo

This is a very common dish that has spread to almost all parts of the country with it’s roots in Buganda. History tells us that it was invented by Kabaka Mwanga’s personal chef in the 19th century, in 1887and was meant to be eaten by the royal family. Over the centuries, this opened up to his subjects and is now popular in most parts of the country. Because of it’s length of preparation, it is preserved for special days like Christmas, Easter, Eid, weddings, introduction ceremonies, business meetings and also when one has important visitors at home. There are restaurants however that have made it part and parcel of their daily menu and one does not have to wait for a special day to enjoy it. Luwombo can be prepared using chicken, smoked fish, beef, goat meat, mushrooms and ground nut (peanut) sauce. The ingredients are put in smoked banana leaves to give the luwombo the best aroma. Note that smoked beef or goat meat also make very delicious luwombo. Recently I found out that there is pork luwombo which I am yet to try.

Akaro

I have decided to use my native language for this but this is a mixture of millet or sorghum flour and cassava that is mingled with boiling water until it stiffens and becomes solid. The mixture of the ingredients differs as some tribes prepare it with less proportions of cassava and others with more cassava flour while others prefer it with no cassava. For instance the Bakonjo enjoy just mingling cassava flour known as Obundwe whereas people in eastern Uganda enjoy Atapa where more cassava flour is mingled with less millet flour. In Western Uganda it is millet with less cassava, they do not use sorghum and it is known as Akaro

Malewa

I got the privilege for tasting this for the first time in my life just a few weeks ago and if I had not seen it before preparation, I would have sworn that it was fish. This is a popular meal in Eastern Uganda where soft bamboo shoots are harvested, dried, cut into smaller pieces and boiled. Groundnut or peanut sauce is added and boiled together with the shoots until it is ready to be eaten. It is commonly enjoyed by the Bagisu, they serve it with Matooke and will leave you biting at your fingers.

Eshabwe

Have you ever imagined fat and salt making a delicacy? This is a traditional meal for the Banyankole, one of the tribes in western Uganda, although just like luwombo, it has gained popularity in other parts of the country too. It is prepared by using mature ghee of about 2 or 3 weeks, salt, cold boiled water and rock salt. For a variety and enhanced taste, some go ahead and add smoked meat.

Malakwang

Originally, this dish was reserved for dry seasons when food was scarce. Originating from the northern region, it is prepared using sour vegetables together with groundnuts and can be served with sweet potatoes and millet bread. Gone are the days when the dish was reserved for dry seasons, it is now eaten almost everyday given its affordability and it is also gaining prominence in other parts of the country.

Firinda

Growing I dreaded the day we had this on the menu. The work that went into un-shelling of the beans was exhausting especially those last 5 beans that would take forever. Firinda is a traditional meal popular among the Banyoro and Batooro in Western Uganda and is prepared by soaking the beans for a night and then they remove the husks. They are then boiled until they are soft and mashed into a porridge like consistency (puree); tomatoes, onions, ghee or smoked meat are added to make the firinda get the perfect taste and aroma. Other ingredients that can be put are vegetable eggs, pumpkin leaves, eggplants. The Bagisu and Acholi also enjoy this sauce and it is served with Akaro, sweet potatoes, cassava.

Removing the testa from beans to make firinda

This is not all of the native foods, I have sampled just some of the most common ones in all the regions. Food shapes any culture or society and it would be interesting for you to try out all these if you happen to come to Uganda.

Culture, Nutrition

What is culture without food?

Would you agree with me that among many things, culture plays a big part on what features on your menu many a time? Probably we all know that the primary role of food is survival but beyond that food has a very significant role that it plays in the lives of human beings. Food is a pivot for unification across cultures and generations. Have you ever sat down and wondered what the food you eat everyday can tell you about where you come from? Have you ever wondered why people from different parts of the world eat different types of food? Or do you ever ask yourself why certain foods or culinary traditions are so important to your culture? These questions should by now indicate to you how there is more of a connection between food and culture than you may think. Food is considered to be multidimensional, something that shapes us, our identities, and our cultures and in the end, our society. Just as different clothes signify different things, for example the white coat for a doctor, the uniform of a police officer or army personnel, food too transmits a meaning.

Growing up, our mother used to always cook on special days, and by special days I mean the Christmas and Easter celebrations of this world. She was the main chef that day and no amount of convincing would make her relent no matter how tired she would be. Everyone who knew our home knew that the menu when she cooked would not miss to have millet bread (kalo) and boiled meat with mushrooms (always cooked in a special pot). This is something that was handed over generations down and this is one of the major foods in my culture (I am a munyoro from the Western part of Uganda), so there is no celebration without this. Be sure I will also pass it down, generations to come.

Food is often used as a means of retaining cultural identity. People from different cultural backgrounds eat different foods with the areas in which families live and where their ancestors originated influencing food likes and dislikes. It is these food preferences that result in patterns of food choices within a cultural or regional group. In many countries, a case we see in Uganda too where rural urban migration is the order of the day, people find a way of maintaining and preserving culture by opening up native food business in the major towns. Here in Kampala there are specific places you will be directed to if you are looking for your cultural food. For example; Those that are coming from the Northern part of this country can find their ethnic food in places like Namayiba bus park and those from the central region can find theirs in places like Luwombo restaurant. People drive miles and miles looking for a connection to their origin through food. We also witness that during celebrations like traditional weddings, it becomes a showcase of culture not only in the wedding rituals but through the food served as well.

The meaning of food is an exploration of culture through food. What we consume, how we acquire it, who prepares it, who’s at the table, and who eats first is a form of communication that it has a rich cultural base. Beyond merely nourishing the body, what we eat and with whom we eat can inspire and strengthen the bonds between individuals, communities, and even countries, so we cannot talk culture without talking about food. This week I will attempt to highlight these and more aspects about food and cultures. I hope to interact with you and learn from you as well.



Culture, Nutrition, Recipes

Luwombo

It doesn’t matter which part of Uganda you come from, you should have tasted this sumptous cusine that has it’s roots in the Buganda culture but has now broken it’s banks and found it’s way in all parts of this country.

Luwombo or ‘oluwombo’ in it’s proper name as it was referred to in Buganda, was first prepared in 1887 for Kabaka Mwanga by his creative chef who was called ‘Kawuuta’. It is a traditional dish that is cooked in a banana leaf by steaming. It can be made of beef, chicken, smoked fish, goat meat, ground nut sauce or even mushrooms. Though this meal was once reserved for the palace, it evolved and started to make an appearance at special occasions especially when a girl brought her soon to be husband to meet her parents. The ‘luwombo’ to be given to the groom was specially prepared by the girl’s ‘senga’ (the girls paternal aunt). This was often a whole chicken prepared to perfection, in most cases it would be cooked for the whole night and by the time it is served that chicken is very tender and busting with countless flavors. The groom was meant to eat it all least it be an offence to the girl’s family. This tradition still continues even to this day although the dish is no-longer reserved for only the royals and special occasions. Ugandans from all walks of life enjoy the dish and we have seen restaurants add it to their menus as well as some that only serve luwombo for example ‘Luwombo restaurant here in Kampala.

Recipe

Preparation

  • Luwombo has a distinct aroma and this comes from this here. Banana leaves are key ingredient for this cuisine but not any kind, young banana leaves are used. First the young banana leaves are smoked in a special way because it’s the aroma is derived from the smoked leaves that gives good oluwombo its uniqueness and great diners appreciate the smoked seasoned taste of the stew inside  the leaves.  The beauty with this cuisine is the fact that one has the leverage to alter the contents apart from the constants which are banana leaves, salt and water. Otherwise one may choose to use beef, chicken, goat’s meat, mushrooms, dried fish or even simply groundnuts.
  • Here is another secret, when the subject of the meal is meat, make sure that yo smoke it.‘kukalirira’ Traditionally this is how it is done; the charcoal on the stove is also covered by light banana peels, the idea here is to make sure that the heat remains under and the peels transport the charming smoked savor into the meat.
  • The luwombo taste is not only derived from the way the banana leaves are smoked, but also the way the meat is smoked and the type of the banana leaf. The banana leaf is specifically from ndiizi type of banana, and they are smoked over a specific flame from dry banana leaves and they must first become brown before they are removed from the fire. Lucky for you and me is lately these smoked banana leaves are sold so you may not have to worry where to get them from or go through the process.

How to make the luwombo

  • Carefully inspect that there are no holes in your smoked banana leaf. Then carefully remove the central rib making sure that you do not tear the leaf and clean the leaf with a damp cloth and then fold the leaf into two.
  • By now you should have a clean basket ready, place the above leaf in its centre. After that, cut a small part from another cleaned leaf and place it under the other fold.(Locally it is called ‘akawuwo’)
  • Now you are ready to bring your ingredients; meat, chopped up vegetables, salt, pepper and all others to your taste and then cover the meat. Other ingredients often used include, onions, green pepper, carrots, tomatoes, garlic, spices, black pepper, chilli etc. Make sure you measure the water you add carefully such that it is just enough to cook the meat and also remain to make soup for the meat.
  • Having put all you need, it is time to tie up your luwombo.
  • Holding the two sides of the folded leaf up and then collecting the side of leaves on both sides while making sure that none of the ingredients spills and then tie up your luwombo with a clean string which is usually the other central rib or midrib of the leaves you removed earlier or a banana fibre.
  • Depending on the number of people you are preparing for, repeat the above exercise to make the number you want.
  • When completed, steam them for about six hours until ready and serve. Luwombo can be served with any food of your liking from matooke to potatoes, cassava to pumpkin or even millet bread

Nutrition Value

  • Luuwombo is a steamed dish and nothing of it’s ingredients is fried so there is no need to worry about cholestrol. It is one of the healthiest foods you will partake.
  • The banana leaf sheathing and the steaming not only creates a delicious aroma very specific to the luwombo, but also prevents the loss of nutrients which would have otherwise been lost in the cooking liquid.
  • The smoking that is done to the meat kills certain bacteria in the meat and slows down the growth of others, prevents fats from becoming rancid, and enhances the smell and flavor making it more appetizing.

Should you be among the unlucky ones who have never tasted a Luwombo, find yourself this cuisine sooner or later and gift your taste buds. They deserve it.

Culture, Nutrition, Recipes

‘Dek ngor’ All the way from Acholi land

Uganda is a melting pot of cultural diversity, it prides itself in culinary delights as part of the culture mix. Today we shall be looking at the Acholi people also known as Acoli. This is an ethnic group from the districts of Agago, Amuru, Gulu, Kitgum, Nwoya, Lamwo, and Pader in Northern Uganda and Magwe County in South Sudan.

The Acholi, in Northern Uganda, pride in a delicacy known as the ‘dek ngor’, relished by the people there and eaten mainly with sheer butter (moo yaa). It is one of the traditional dishes that has stood the taste of time. This dish is especially served to the in-laws on the first day they arrive in the home of the girl to bring dowry. This dish has earned its place in the annals of Acholi’s history of food, if there is such a thing, given its popularity with people from all walks of life in the region. Given its nutrition value, it has broken the boundaries of culture and is a dish that can be prepared -by anyone.

Process of making ‘Dek Ngor’

Dek ngor preparation is a step-by-step affair that can be done by almost anyone.
You will need pigeon peas for this dish and the local grinding stone.

  • The pigeon peas are dried in the sun then crashed using the grinding stone and then cleaned as the peas are being put on fire. A cooking pot is used for this process of cooking
  • After stirring for some time, you add sim sim or ground nut paste as it’s cohesion ability to stiffen will enable the sheer butter (moo yaa) to float on top
  • Using the grinding stone, crash the pigeon peas into halves. The peas are then boiled till it becomes soft, and crash to make a smooth paste of source

This source is served millet, sweet potatoes or any other food that you may deem fit.

Nutrition Value

Like you have noted already, this particular dish bursts with countless nutrients that are used as ingredients. The peas are an excellent source of proteins and like this is not enough, simsim or groundnut paste is added which serves as additional value all in one pot.

The process of crashing the peas not only makes the process of cooking the peas faster but it also breaks the peas further of any phytates that may be in there. The texture which is a puree texture to which the soup is formed into not only makes the dish delicious but makes it an excellent dish during weaning.

This is a dish worth a try

Grinding of the pigeon peas
‘Dek Ngor’ served with millet